Kilted climbing

The other week mentioned a fun wee shoot I did with Steven Gordon. It was for Visit Scotland, promoting an adventure travel trade summit happening in Aviemore next month. Visit Scotland just sent over the picture they chose to promote the summit, so I thought I would share it.I thought Steven did a fine job here!Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

www.rock-climbing-blog.com claimed on Technorati

I’m pleased to claim this blog officially on Technorati so that more people will read it
This link to my Technorati Profile is all it takes.
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William Shatner Explains the Motivations of Climbers

Famous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Learning the error of my ways

The more you climb, the better you?ll climb

I have had a few days away from climbing - in fact, my last session was 3 weekends ago at Froggatt - and so I got back to the gym this week. My local gym has an auto-belay setup so I was able to do some indoor routes without company.
And I struggled! Struggled to get [...]Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear Climbing photos

Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak

Thailand sport climbing: can you help?

Since an old friend told me about his climbing trips to Thailand it’s been one of my boxes-to-tick. Climbing by the beach and then relaxing in the blue seas sounds too good to be true. I’m about to find out - I’ve decided to do it later this year…



Photo kindly shared by HalonaCoast on Flickr
I’m [...]Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

International Mountain Day - 2010

Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

Self-Arrest Techniques

Climb aconcagua Climbing videos Moon climbing

CrossFit ? The Ultimate Mountaineering Workout?

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

Thailand sport climbing: can you help?

Since an old friend told me about his climbing trips to Thailand it’s been one of my boxes-to-tick. Climbing by the beach and then relaxing in the blue seas sounds too good to be true. I’m about to find out - I’ve decided to do it later this year…



Photo kindly shared by HalonaCoast on Flickr
I’m [...]American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

Hot Aches DVDs offers

Kilted climbing

The other week mentioned a fun wee shoot I did with Steven Gordon. It was for Visit Scotland, promoting an adventure travel trade summit happening in Aviemore next month. Visit Scotland just sent over the picture they chose to promote the summit, so I thought I would share it.I thought Steven did a fine job here!Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Thailand sport climbing: can you help?

Since an old friend told me about his climbing trips to Thailand it’s been one of my boxes-to-tick. Climbing by the beach and then relaxing in the blue seas sounds too good to be true. I’m about to find out - I’ve decided to do it later this year…



Photo kindly shared by HalonaCoast on Flickr
I’m [...]Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

The Slate

It?s been a while? after an amazing time in Pembroke I headed to North Wales and based out of a little town called Llanberis, headquarters to North Wales climbing. It?s an amazing place with a lot of different styles of climbing? maybe most famous for its quarried slate climbing just outside of town.
Most of my [...]Rock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

New 8b at Steall, Glen Nevis

Since the conditions got kinda frozen last week I was eager to see if the drips of Steall would freeze at source and allow me to see off an obvious link-up project. A few months ago I did a new 8a+ called The Gurrie, between Leopold and Steall Appeal. So named because I started up it only intending to work out the first 4 moves off the deck and ended up growling and scuffling my way through the crux bulge to the chain.The obvious link was to take in the second crux of Steall Appeal to bump it to soft 8b. Once I?d worked a sequence around the icicles at the top, I stuck my handwarmer ?teabag? in the chalkbag and got it done. Video below:


Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Cascades by Air

Wheel of Life

Moon climbing Climbing board Climbing blocks

Kennedy Space Center & NASA

Dennis & I took a tour of the Kennedy Space Center, including a viewing of the NASA launch complex and 3D IMAX movie. Oh yes, we two love-nerds were very happy!


First, we jumped on a bus which took us over to the NASA complex. We had a lovely tour and took lots of [...]Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

Conditions Report - November 24 2010

Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Coaching at Big Rock

Some pics from my technique coaching sessions at the opening on Big Rock in Milton Keynes. Thanks to Tom George for these!









Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

2010 AMGA/IFMGA Conference

Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

back at it?

So I?m back on the blogging front? I know? It?s been way to long, I cant even remember when the last blogged but my site tells me April 22 was the last real post, and wow, that was a long time ago? So much has happened in my life since then, I can?t begin [...]Moon climbing Climbing board Climbing blocks

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

CrossFit ? The Ultimate Mountaineering Workout?

Conditions Report - November 24 2010

Climbing videos Moon climbing Climbing board

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Thailand sport climbing: can you help?

Since an old friend told me about his climbing trips to Thailand it’s been one of my boxes-to-tick. Climbing by the beach and then relaxing in the blue seas sounds too good to be true. I’m about to find out - I’ve decided to do it later this year…



Photo kindly shared by HalonaCoast on Flickr
I’m [...]Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

November and December Climbing Events

Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear Climbing photos

5 climbs, 5 islands scheduled on BBC2

The 5 climbs, 5 islands film has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland! Originally filmed as a back up for the Great Climb programme in case of atrocious weather, injuries etc (we got both but still managed it!), we had a great adventure and I think you?ll like the film.We travelled about the Hebrides on a big boat, attempting some really hard new routes back to back over 5 days. You?ll have to watch the programmes to see the outcome but I can tell you it was the best trip I?ve had new routing in the Hebrides, certainly one of the hardest and definitely with the most falls!The culmination of the trip trying a brilliant 2 pitch line of perfect black Gabbro on St Kilda was unbelievable.It will be shown in two x 1 hour shows, BBC2 Scotland, Sky, iplayer October 19th and 26th at 19.00. Enjoy!


Some pics from St Kilda on the 5 climbs, 5 islands trip. Photos: Triple Echo



My previous blog about the trip is here.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/11/10

Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

What now?

After I did Rhapsody at Dumbarton in 2006, I pretty quickly packed up and moved to the Highlands of Scotland. There were lots of reasons for doing this, climbing being just one. The ?climbing reason? was largely to find the most adventurous, arduous new routes I could lay my hands on, and try and do them. To Hell and Back, Echo Wall and more recently The Usual Suspects. All climbs where the actual climbing is only a small part of the deal. I?ve spent a ridiculous amount of time walking into Scottish coires in the rain with three ropes and two racks in my bag. I buy cleaning brushes in packs of 24. I?ve given myself three overuse injuries from cleaning new routes. On The Usual Suspects I think I spent 10 days on the rope on Sron Ulladale with my rockshoes just dangling from my harness before I finished finding, rigging and cleaning it and could actually start to move on it.I?ve been doing first ascents for 12 years now and still I love it. Not in a count ?em up ticking kind of way. It?s the creative expression of every stage of the process that I?ve enjoyed so far. Over the past few years I?ve really revelled in the inaccessibility, the awkwardness and the pure endurance factor of time and effort needed to open new routes on trad gear in the remotest possible places.But climbing never has been about one channel for me. When judging the value of experiences, people often refer to how ?memorable? they were. This makes sense. I was reading Steve McClure?s column in Climb today and he was talking about how he found his long redpoint battles most memorable for him. I feel exactly the same. For me also, there is no substitute for the detail, the intricacy of the moves and the tactics and the totally enveloping focus of the redpoint effort, with all extraneous thought and movement distilled out by a thousand rehearsals in body and mind. Every bit of time, effort, sweat and will that goes into it, all add to it?s value.I don?t think my memory of the smell and the summer sun on Echo Wall sessions will ever diminish. Or glissading down Observatory gully at 11pm in the sunset feeling totally at home. Or the roaring wind throwing me about on Sron Uladail, ropes rubbing on sharp edges, soaked to the skin as I looked for lines to climb. Mountains and mountain trad climbing inevitably make a deep stamp in your memory by their power. So is that an argument to forget everything else and go trad climbing all the time? No!Memories are important, but they are not everything. We have to live in the moment too. Everyday needs and pleasures are also important. You might not remember your regular walk to your girlfriend?s or school or work on a particular day several years ago. But the everyday act of walking is something really important to lots of us. To say you?d soon miss it if it was taken away from you is a bit of an understatement. This everyday routine of climbing movement is the other side of climbing for me, and I know it is for lots of people, even if they don?t necessarily think of it that way. Whether it?s the exercise, or the emptying of the mind for a while, or the movement or whatever - it doesn?t matter. If you look at it directly it seems mundane. But the bigger picture shows that it becomes important to you. Especially if, like me, you?ve done it for 17 years.I often feel like this in September. A long ?summer? of labour intensive mountain new routing leaves me counting the hours of being wet, walking with large sacks, shivering and hauling about on ropes and realising this comes at the expense of actual metres of hard moves climbed. This season, like all the previous, I have some fine adventures to show for it. If the last warm days, dry mountain crags and partners collide, I may yet have more. Now though, the pendulum needs to swing the other way and I need to climb some hard moves again. 

Short term plan: time to boulderDave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Weekend Warrior - Videos to Get You Scared!

Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

Triaxal Loading on Trees

Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

Access Secured At California?s Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help

First bouldering at Stanage Plantation, Derbyshire, UK

Location: Stanage Plantation
Date: Sunday 27 July
Sunday shone this weekend. A planned trip to the gym was quickly canned and instead we made a trip out to a new bouldering spot. After a recommendation that Stanage plantation had some good climbing (thanks Jonny!) we checked my bouldering guide book and set out.
If you’re reading this wondering [...]Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/11/10

Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Best Adventure Photo Award

Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

Uncle Chet Memorial

We heard sad news today that Uncle Chet passed away. I’m not sure his age at passing, but he had a long life and was devoted to Aunt Shirley. We had a chance to visit with them about a year ago, and it was really nice. Uncle Chet loved to tell stories, [...]Moon climbing Climbing board Climbing blocks

Conditions Report - November 10 2010

Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Die by the Drop E10 7a

After a a couple of weeks of October deluge in the highlands, the mountains had turned an amazing bright gold colour lit up by a rare morning of sunshine. I took my chance and headed out to Glenfinnan with Kev for a look at the slab. I was off to Spain that evening, so it was worth going for a look even just for a few hours. On arrival at Lochailort and inspection of the slab through my binoculars, it was still soaking. Over several brews in Arisaig?s caf?, we discussed how precious it was to be have dry days on mountain crag projects in Scotland. It had been over two weeks of waiting since our last day at the slab, and I realised it would over three before I could come back again after a trip away and some work for sponsors. The discussion was ringing in my ears when we arrived at the crag at noon to find my E10 project almost dry. It isn?t a long route so I there were no excuses about needing to work sections of it anymore. I knew exactly what to do and that it would never be any easier to lead than today. So why not? Well, because the knowledge of the moves meant I knew how easy it would be to fall. A desperate snatch for a thumb press and another for a poor smear were definitely low percentage moves, above a sole microwire in dubious rock and a couple of comedy skyhooks in a flake you could pull off with the same force as you?d need to open a fridge door.I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I?d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top.What a great experience and I must say I felt a lot better after it and that I?d decided to go for it. It?s a slab so who knows what bloody grade to give it? I know there are some hard slabs out there, and I also know I?m an awful slab climber. So all I can really do is compare it to recent slabs and other trad routes I?ve climbed: Harder than Indian Face & Walk of Life? Check. Harder than If Six Was Nine? Check. Harder than Muy Caliente? Check. Etc etc... So maybe it scrapes into E10 7a. PS: Will post up some video stills and pics when I?m home from Spain.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesEvergreen climbers York climbers Cat climbers

Mountain Equipment?s Chill slackline sets are now in stock in the shop - the 15 metre ?entry level? set. A little wider at 40mm?Also back in stock is the To Hell and Back DVD which some of you have been asking for.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesSpanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

Conditions Report - November 3 2010

Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

What now?

After I did Rhapsody at Dumbarton in 2006, I pretty quickly packed up and moved to the Highlands of Scotland. There were lots of reasons for doing this, climbing being just one. The ?climbing reason? was largely to find the most adventurous, arduous new routes I could lay my hands on, and try and do them. To Hell and Back, Echo Wall and more recently The Usual Suspects. All climbs where the actual climbing is only a small part of the deal. I?ve spent a ridiculous amount of time walking into Scottish coires in the rain with three ropes and two racks in my bag. I buy cleaning brushes in packs of 24. I?ve given myself three overuse injuries from cleaning new routes. On The Usual Suspects I think I spent 10 days on the rope on Sron Ulladale with my rockshoes just dangling from my harness before I finished finding, rigging and cleaning it and could actually start to move on it.I?ve been doing first ascents for 12 years now and still I love it. Not in a count ?em up ticking kind of way. It?s the creative expression of every stage of the process that I?ve enjoyed so far. Over the past few years I?ve really revelled in the inaccessibility, the awkwardness and the pure endurance factor of time and effort needed to open new routes on trad gear in the remotest possible places.But climbing never has been about one channel for me. When judging the value of experiences, people often refer to how ?memorable? they were. This makes sense. I was reading Steve McClure?s column in Climb today and he was talking about how he found his long redpoint battles most memorable for him. I feel exactly the same. For me also, there is no substitute for the detail, the intricacy of the moves and the tactics and the totally enveloping focus of the redpoint effort, with all extraneous thought and movement distilled out by a thousand rehearsals in body and mind. Every bit of time, effort, sweat and will that goes into it, all add to it?s value.I don?t think my memory of the smell and the summer sun on Echo Wall sessions will ever diminish. Or glissading down Observatory gully at 11pm in the sunset feeling totally at home. Or the roaring wind throwing me about on Sron Uladail, ropes rubbing on sharp edges, soaked to the skin as I looked for lines to climb. Mountains and mountain trad climbing inevitably make a deep stamp in your memory by their power. So is that an argument to forget everything else and go trad climbing all the time? No!Memories are important, but they are not everything. We have to live in the moment too. Everyday needs and pleasures are also important. You might not remember your regular walk to your girlfriend?s or school or work on a particular day several years ago. But the everyday act of walking is something really important to lots of us. To say you?d soon miss it if it was taken away from you is a bit of an understatement. This everyday routine of climbing movement is the other side of climbing for me, and I know it is for lots of people, even if they don?t necessarily think of it that way. Whether it?s the exercise, or the emptying of the mind for a while, or the movement or whatever - it doesn?t matter. If you look at it directly it seems mundane. But the bigger picture shows that it becomes important to you. Especially if, like me, you?ve done it for 17 years.I often feel like this in September. A long ?summer? of labour intensive mountain new routing leaves me counting the hours of being wet, walking with large sacks, shivering and hauling about on ropes and realising this comes at the expense of actual metres of hard moves climbed. This season, like all the previous, I have some fine adventures to show for it. If the last warm days, dry mountain crags and partners collide, I may yet have more. Now though, the pendulum needs to swing the other way and I need to climb some hard moves again. 

Short term plan: time to boulderDave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Chicago

We spent a day exploring Chicago. We started out in the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower), then walked over to Millennium Park, and ended by going on a Segway Tour!


Video of Our Segway Tour of Chicago


View Looking South & East from Top of Willis Tower

View Looking North & East from Top of Willis Tower

Holiday [...]Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Risk & Ethics of Adventure: EMFF Oct 24th

At this year?s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival I?m speaking at a debate on the Ethics of Adventure. Sunday 24th October, 2pm, details on the EMFF site here.Of course there are many ethical aspects to adventure and adventure sport, and which we discuss I?m sure will depend on what you guys want to talk about on the day. I guess the most discussed of all is of course the issue of risk. I?m never sure whether it?s because I?ve studied, written and talked about the subject for years now, or whether I rub noses with it a lot, or whether I?m getting older. But when I observe attitudes to risk in some others or society in general, I get quite riled. I?m a passive sort of chap and that doesn?t happen easily. It strikes me that the general attitudes to risk and which risks are acceptable are not in my society has got progressively more messed up in my lifetime. My sport of climbing has been a welcome sanctuary of sense a lot of the time! It seems that people are content to take huge risks with life, limb or lifestyle without giving much thought (or none at all), yet are aghast at others risk taking that is proportionally far smaller, or balanced against much greater reward.I?m being a little provocative here of course. I know that it?s a question of perception. A lot of our grave errors in risk awareness and management aren?t really our fault. We?re not hardwired to cope with the sorts of risks of modern life, and the corrupting influences of the media compound this to a quite staggering level. So more on this on the 24th? See you there maybe for a lively chat.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

The Euro Death Knot

Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

2010 AMGA/IFMGA Conference

Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

Cascades by Air

Ablakov V Thread without the V Threader

2010 AMGA/IFMGA Conference

Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

www.rock-climbing-blog.com claimed on Technorati

I’m pleased to claim this blog officially on Technorati so that more people will read it
This link to my Technorati Profile is all it takes.
Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

new Blue Mtns guidebook [1]

Evergreen climbers York climbers Cat climbers

Logging in the PNW

Even if you think logging is the devil’s work, you have to admit it does make for some pretty cool patterns.
Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/4/10

Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

The Sea Cliffs of Pembroke?

Fighting jetlag is always a challenge, especially when the weather is perfect and you know its not going to last. I spent the last few days battling my jetlag at one of the most inspiring climbing destinations I?ve ever been to: the sea cliffs of Pembroke in South Wales. Its breath taking, absolutely amazing limestone [...]Cat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

A rock climbing training blog - why?

If you are hoping to improve your ability or learn more about training techniques and tools, then this blog will give you some of the answers - because that’s what I’m going to do too!
I’ve been climbing for about three years and have developed enough basic ability to get me up 6a routes. I’ve set [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

November and December Climbing Events

Mount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

www.rock-climbing-blog.com claimed on Technorati

I’m pleased to claim this blog officially on Technorati so that more people will read it
This link to my Technorati Profile is all it takes.
Climbing photos Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique

Rock Climbing ? El Rito, NM

Lauren & I roll into El Rito just as the heat gets hot. We decide not to climb in the rubber melting temperature, so we hike to the Trad Area for an exploratory look. The route to the Trad Area was a few miles down the gravel road from the Sport Area, and [...]Climb aconcagua Climbing videos Moon climbing

Yangshuo Climbing Festival, Day 2

On day 2, the final day of the Yangshuo Climbing Festival, we awoke to steady rain which continued through the evening. However, no one let it get them down. The schedule was re-arranged slightly and the overhanging White Mountain crag stayed dry the whole time.
In the morning, climbing clinics hosted by pro athletes were [...]Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing

Die by the Drop E10 7a

After a a couple of weeks of October deluge in the highlands, the mountains had turned an amazing bright gold colour lit up by a rare morning of sunshine. I took my chance and headed out to Glenfinnan with Kev for a look at the slab. I was off to Spain that evening, so it was worth going for a look even just for a few hours. On arrival at Lochailort and inspection of the slab through my binoculars, it was still soaking. Over several brews in Arisaig?s caf?, we discussed how precious it was to be have dry days on mountain crag projects in Scotland. It had been over two weeks of waiting since our last day at the slab, and I realised it would over three before I could come back again after a trip away and some work for sponsors. The discussion was ringing in my ears when we arrived at the crag at noon to find my E10 project almost dry. It isn?t a long route so I there were no excuses about needing to work sections of it anymore. I knew exactly what to do and that it would never be any easier to lead than today. So why not? Well, because the knowledge of the moves meant I knew how easy it would be to fall. A desperate snatch for a thumb press and another for a poor smear were definitely low percentage moves, above a sole microwire in dubious rock and a couple of comedy skyhooks in a flake you could pull off with the same force as you?d need to open a fridge door.I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I?d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top.What a great experience and I must say I felt a lot better after it and that I?d decided to go for it. It?s a slab so who knows what bloody grade to give it? I know there are some hard slabs out there, and I also know I?m an awful slab climber. So all I can really do is compare it to recent slabs and other trad routes I?ve climbed: Harder than Indian Face & Walk of Life? Check. Harder than If Six Was Nine? Check. Harder than Muy Caliente? Check. Etc etc... So maybe it scrapes into E10 7a. PS: Will post up some video stills and pics when I?m home from Spain.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Great Climb & Triple 5 DVD?s have arrived

The DVDs of our live BBC Great Climb and also the Triple 5 (5 Climbs, 5 Islands) programmes are ready and Cameron McNeish is dropping them in to me later this morning. I?ve put them up in the shop just now.The Great Climb DVD comes as a 3xDVD set with the full 6 hour programme of the first ascent of The Usual Suspects E9 7a, including an option to listen with or without the television commentary, extra footage from the climb such as the roof section on Pitch 4 of our route and extras about the background and making of the programme. It?s in the shop here.The Triple 5 DVD comes as a 2xDVD set of a longer cut of the film with extra climbing, interview and background footage. The ?5 Climbs, 5 Islands? programmes that went out on the BBC was 2 hour cut. The DVD is a 3.5 hour cut so could go into more depth about the climbs we did during the challenge and our approaches to climbing in general. It?s in the shop here.I noticed at Kendal that a lot of folk wanted their DVD signed. If you would like that when ordering from the shop, just ask! Write in the ?Special instructions to merchant? field of the checkout page.Hope you enjoy them.
Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Belay Glove Confessions

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DPM Launches Climbing After 30 Video Series

Deadpoint Magazine launches a new video series about climbing after 30DPM Launches Climbing After 30 Video Series from ClimbingNarc.com



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Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

Day Hike ? Milner Pass to Bear Lake Continental Divide Traverse

When Dennis & I were forced to retreat off the summit ramp of Mt. Ida a couple summers ago, I vowed to return and claim victory. Boy, did I ever!

Lucky for me, intrepid CMC trip leader, Dominique, came up with a marvelous scheme: Hike from Milner Pass to Bear Lake bagging peaks along [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Kilted climbing

The other week mentioned a fun wee shoot I did with Steven Gordon. It was for Visit Scotland, promoting an adventure travel trade summit happening in Aviemore next month. Visit Scotland just sent over the picture they chose to promote the summit, so I thought I would share it.I thought Steven did a fine job here!Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Risk & Ethics of Adventure: EMFF Oct 24th

At this year?s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival I?m speaking at a debate on the Ethics of Adventure. Sunday 24th October, 2pm, details on the EMFF site here.Of course there are many ethical aspects to adventure and adventure sport, and which we discuss I?m sure will depend on what you guys want to talk about on the day. I guess the most discussed of all is of course the issue of risk. I?m never sure whether it?s because I?ve studied, written and talked about the subject for years now, or whether I rub noses with it a lot, or whether I?m getting older. But when I observe attitudes to risk in some others or society in general, I get quite riled. I?m a passive sort of chap and that doesn?t happen easily. It strikes me that the general attitudes to risk and which risks are acceptable are not in my society has got progressively more messed up in my lifetime. My sport of climbing has been a welcome sanctuary of sense a lot of the time! It seems that people are content to take huge risks with life, limb or lifestyle without giving much thought (or none at all), yet are aghast at others risk taking that is proportionally far smaller, or balanced against much greater reward.I?m being a little provocative here of course. I know that it?s a question of perception. A lot of our grave errors in risk awareness and management aren?t really our fault. We?re not hardwired to cope with the sorts of risks of modern life, and the corrupting influences of the media compound this to a quite staggering level. So more on this on the 24th? See you there maybe for a lively chat.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFamous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

The Pinnacle DVD is here

Hot Aches Productions DVD about our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis is ready. Tomorrow (Friday) I?m at the premiere of the film in Kendal and will be picking up our DVD stock from Diff there and dispatching orders when we come home on Monday. It?s up in the shop to order if you want a copy, right here.In case you missed my previous posts about our week, this is what all the fuss is about: In 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, probably the best ice climbers anywhere at the time completed a week of back to back first ascents of cutting edge ice routes on Ben Nevis. The first one-day ascent of Point Five Gully, first ascents of Pigott?s Route, Smith?s Route, The Great Chimney, Minus 3 Gully, Orion Face Direct and a traverse of the Grey Corries as their ?rest day?. It was a massive step forward and took the generation behind them a good decade and the development of modern ice tools to catch up. Step cutting these routes day after day was a fantastic feat of skill and endurance. It became a bit of a legend in Scottish climbing, to say the least.Hence, 50 years later, to the day, myself and Andy Turner felt it would be great to go and repeat the week of climbs and make a film about it with Hot Aches Productions. We had a great night after our week with Jimmy Marshall himself, talking about the week at the Fort William Mountain Festival (which you?ll find as an extra on the DVD along with an extensive interview with Jimmy who is now 82). Since then, Paul Diffley has been preparing the edit of the film itself.It recounts the story of Jimmy and Robin?s adventure and achievement, shows off the routes and the Ben itself rather beautifully I think. It did help that we had a stunning week of weather on our re-enactment.Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed making it.

About to top out on Point Five Gully during our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis.

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesAmerican mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

November and December Climbing Events

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Contest: Win A 2010 Access Fund Holiday Pack

Find out how you can win an Access Fund Holiday Pack stuffed with goodiesContest: Win A 2010 Access Fund Holiday Pack from ClimbingNarc.com



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Learning the error of my ways

Thought provoking afternoon

Just in from a shivery afternoon under black skies and gales in Glenfinnan. Kev couldn?t make it out for sessions on the slab so I took the shunt and worked more on the harder of the two projects there. When I originally looked at it I could see that it was possible but it looked like an E11 slab (!) Can you imagine how nails that would have to be?But after some hours of deciphering I decoded a sequence and with much wild slapping for various tiny things, got it linked on the top rope. Oh dear. There is also one microwire placement. A poor one, but enough to make it seem like it could be the coming down towards the top of the E10 band, and something I would at least think about leading.Most of the hard trad routes I?ve done are much better protected than this, and a LOT easier. The only harder route I?ve done is Echo Wall probably, but that suited my style being steep and technical. I?m a crap slab climber on the whole. Having said that, I?ve tried to climb some harder slabs to get better at them. Comparing this line to other slabs like Indian Face or The Walk of Life in my mind - they are easy warm-ups against this line, and a lot better protected. A lot of much better microwires would have to rip on Indian Face before you?d be in trouble on a fall. This route only has one, shallow, flared and in quite soft rock.Unfortunately there?s no way I could lead this slab with any kind of margin. It?s a full on, all out desperate slap, scream and wobble fest to get through the crux. And that?s on a top rope. The landing looks like it might only dish out broken legs. It?s only a 40 foot route. But the chances of a scary tumble would be high. Thought provoking? I can?t decide if it?s a good thing that the forecast looks rubbish until I go to Spain.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Wheel of Life

Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

www.rock-climbing-blog.com claimed on Technorati

I’m pleased to claim this blog officially on Technorati so that more people will read it
This link to my Technorati Profile is all it takes.
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Good fun work

Pic by Steven Gordon, Kilt by 21st Century, Chalksporran by BD.Photoshoot work last week with Steven Gordon for a Scottish client (obviously!). Good fun day despite me hobbling on a dodgy ankle and Steven dislocating his Patella. We ate a lot of vitamin I, got sunburned and soloed roofs in kilts. Good work?Steven writes and posts more pics on his blog here.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Beginner?s Guide to Sport Climbing Red Rocks, Nevada

Red Rocks, Nevada is one of my favorite climbing destinations. Located just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, the combination of Sin City + fantastic climbing can make for an interesting vacation, if you’re so inclined. Like my Beginner’s Guide To Rock Climbing in Thailand, I focus on sport climbs in the 5.6 to [...]Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

Brion Voges Lost In The Hood

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Mount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

Devil's Tower

Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

"The Burrito" Hypothermia Wrap

Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

The Lions vs The Eagles

Joe & Brenda treated Dennis & I to see the Lions Season Opener vs The Eagles at Ford Field. This was almost a dream come true for Dennis. The only improvement on the day would have been if the Lions could have pulled off a win. They were very close. [...]Cat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

The Slate

It?s been a while? after an amazing time in Pembroke I headed to North Wales and based out of a little town called Llanberis, headquarters to North Wales climbing. It?s an amazing place with a lot of different styles of climbing? maybe most famous for its quarried slate climbing just outside of town.
Most of my [...]Moon climbing Climbing board Climbing blocks

Yangshuo Climbing Festival, Day 1

Today was the first full day of the First Annual Yanshuo Climbing Festival, sponsored by The North Face and Black Diamond. There were hundreds of climbers, volunteers, and spectators out for the event, which was spread across three crags. We were at White Mountain, the main venue, for the whole day.


The redpoint climbing [...]Climb aconcagua Climbing videos Moon climbing

2010 AMGA/IFMGA Conference

Evergreen climbers York climbers Cat climbers

Uncle Chet Memorial

We heard sad news today that Uncle Chet passed away. I’m not sure his age at passing, but he had a long life and was devoted to Aunt Shirley. We had a chance to visit with them about a year ago, and it was really nice. Uncle Chet loved to tell stories, [...]Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Mast climbers Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing

2010 AORE Conference

Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

Coaching at Big Rock

Some pics from my technique coaching sessions at the opening on Big Rock in Milton Keynes. Thanks to Tom George for these!









Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesCat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

Anti-slabs in Margalef

After a summer of climbing a lot of slabs, I?ve been climbing for the last two weeks in the giant roofs of Margalef. Here?s a wee clip of climbing and 8b and 8c (might be 8c+ now after I broke a crucial hold) in the roof of Sector Finestra. These are definitely not slabs!Part of the fun of climbing here right now is it?s good therapy for an injury I picked up recently. More on this over on my Online Climbing Coach blog here.






Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/18/10

Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

Jonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge

Jonathan Siegrist cleans up another longstanding 5.14 project at Kentucky's Red River GorgeJonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge from ClimbingNarc.com



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The more you climb, the better you?ll climb

I have had a few days away from climbing - in fact, my last session was 3 weekends ago at Froggatt - and so I got back to the gym this week. My local gym has an auto-belay setup so I was able to do some indoor routes without company.
And I struggled! Struggled to get [...]Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/18/10

Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

November and December Climbing Events

York climbers Cat climbers Mast climbers

Wheel of Life

Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

November and December Climbing Events

Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

Going It Alone

In praise of bouldering

I?ve had two and a half intense days at home since returning from work in Milton Keynes and leaving for more work in Wales this morning. Too much driving!Last night, after a marathon office stint, attempting to finally catch up with all my work at home, I enjoyed a session on my board immensely. That might not seem surprising. But to me, the extent of my enjoyment of bouldering surprises me nearly every time I do it.As I was saying in a recent post, I?m looking for lots of things in climbing - adventure, partnerships, big challenges. Seen as ?higher order? pleasures compared to the physical enjoyment of climbing. Except ?higher order? is totally the wrong way to see it.In actual fact, there is nothing ?lower order? about the physical side of climbing. Firstly, because there?s no such thing as a purely physical pleasure. All enjoyment is psychological. Sometimes it?s convenient to separate ?basic physical? and more complicated feelings. However, when it comes down to it, there is no difference along these lines and that is not sufficiently recognised in modern discussions of climbing or other types of enjoyment.A complicating factor in how physical and mental pleasures have become separate is our natural tendency to become either arrogant, ignorant or just a bit unimaginative. Lots of climbers got into climbing to have adventures, see nice places, gain respect or acceptance and other things like this. It?s still fairly common that some climbers either simply don?t understand sport climbing and bouldering, or think they do understand it and look down upon it as a ?lower order? pleasure.Their loss! And I don?t mean that in a dismissive way. This post is a direct appeal to those people to make another effort to understand it and realise the whole world of deep enjoyment they are missing out on! Sometimes, it?s purely the fear of the status quo changing and their connection with climbing changing that stops people giving it any effort. Maybe your view of what you value in your climbing might change forever and that feels risky. But much more often it?s a purely practical problem - people don?t know how to boulder. They don?t know what to do on a bouldering wall. It feels boring to them. Their mistake is to deduce therefore it is boring. Rather, they just haven?t figured it out yet.It?s a skill in itself and it takes time and application to master. It?s not love at first acquaintance for everyone as I?m sure some of you could testify. Think about a skill you know well such as your favourite branch of climbing, your job or some other activity. Have you ever seen people make some basic mistakes and fail to connect with it? You find yourself thinking ?if you just did it this way, you?d get so much more out of it!?. Well maybe you are in the same position with bouldering.I?ll put my money where my mouth is and write a simple guide to how to boulder and enjoy it for those who have tried and don?t. I?ll do this shortly and post on my other blog. But for now here is a quick thought:We call boulder problems ?problems? because it is primarily a problem solving activity (that idea of it being all about the physical is dissolving already!). So you have to come to it with the willingness to grapple with the problem - experiment, learn incrementally and then reach the solution. If you do it indoors then you inevitably run out of problems and need to set more yourself. So it?s also a problem setting discipline. A massive area of skill with lots of areas to go wrong. Learn it piece by piece. And what about the physical connection? First, you have to open yourself to the pleasure of movement. Not everyone is. They are too focused on getting to the top - the result, the task completion mentality. There is more to it. If the objective is not just to climb it but to climb it well, with minimum force. The experience has more dimensions this way.  The application of strength and momentum is enjoyable too. But not just for the force - for the timing of the force and also the sparing of it.It?s possible to get so much enjoyment from an hour on a plywood board. Crazy thought.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFamous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]Rock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

Jonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge

Jonathan Siegrist cleans up another longstanding 5.14 project at Kentucky's Red River GorgeJonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge from ClimbingNarc.com



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York climbers Cat climbers Mast climbers

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yosemite Valley

Although Yosemite Valley is known mainly for the towering granite monoliths of El Capitan and Half Dome, it also has plenty of easier trad climbing classics. This guide covers a number of trad climbs in the 5.5 to 5.7 range for beginning traditional climbers. Be wary of climbing grades in Yosemite, as they [...]Mount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

November and December Climbing Events

Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

Rock Climbing ? El Rito, NM

Lauren & I roll into El Rito just as the heat gets hot. We decide not to climb in the rubber melting temperature, so we hike to the Trad Area for an exploratory look. The route to the Trad Area was a few miles down the gravel road from the Sport Area, and [...]Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

Lectures in Harris, Lewis and Kendal

I?ve just arranged two lectures in the Western Isles pretty soon - I?m speaking on Harris at the Harris Hotel, Tarbert at 8pm on October 4th. On Oct 5th I?m at the Cala Inn in Stornoway. I?ll talk about how climbing transformed my life, thoughts on climbing Sron Uladail on live telly with an overdose of painkillers and why climbing is load safer than it looks?Well, most of the time anyway.I?m also speaking at this year?s Kendal Mountain Festival in November. On the Friday night  I?m speaking alongside Andy Turner at the Premiere of The Pinnacle (The Smith/Marshall ?week? on the Ben). On the Saturday it?s ?Great Climb? night and I?m co-hosting an evening of talking and film about the making of the BBC live broadcast alongside Richard Else, Brian Hall and Cameron McNeish. Should be fun!See y?all there.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesSpanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

One Last Trip to Mount Baker before the Winter Season

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Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you Stoked!!

Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Rock Climbing ? El Rito, NM

Lauren & I roll into El Rito just as the heat gets hot. We decide not to climb in the rubber melting temperature, so we hike to the Trad Area for an exploratory look. The route to the Trad Area was a few miles down the gravel road from the Sport Area, and [...]Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Access Secured At California?s Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help

Going It Alone

Beginner?s Guide to Sport Climbing Red Rocks, Nevada

Red Rocks, Nevada is one of my favorite climbing destinations. Located just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, the combination of Sin City + fantastic climbing can make for an interesting vacation, if you’re so inclined. Like my Beginner’s Guide To Rock Climbing in Thailand, I focus on sport climbs in the 5.6 to [...]Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Famous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Logging in the PNW

Even if you think logging is the devil’s work, you have to admit it does make for some pretty cool patterns.
Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

The more you climb, the better you?ll climb

I have had a few days away from climbing - in fact, my last session was 3 weekends ago at Froggatt - and so I got back to the gym this week. My local gym has an auto-belay setup so I was able to do some indoor routes without company.
And I struggled! Struggled to get [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Logging in the PNW

Even if you think logging is the devil’s work, you have to admit it does make for some pretty cool patterns.
Climbing photos Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique

Darren?s Bonfire

On Saturday, we flew from Chicago to Detroit to spend the day with Dennis’s family. His cousin Darren invited us over to his yearly bonfire, so of course, I was ***Very*** excited!

Here’s Darren & Rose inside his pad. He has an awesome place, it’s a huge building with his speedboat, workout gear, [...]Famous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Bouldering Burbage photos

Finally a little sun! Yesterday I went climbing in Burbage (specifically Burbage south boulders) in the Peak District near Sheffield. I’m really glad I’ve got these boulders within 15 minutes of my home.
Although in a climbing wall / gym I’m happy on 6a/6b the techniques on grit boulders are a different world: lots of smearing [...]Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/11/10

Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

Risk & Ethics of Adventure: EMFF Oct 24th

At this year?s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival I?m speaking at a debate on the Ethics of Adventure. Sunday 24th October, 2pm, details on the EMFF site here.Of course there are many ethical aspects to adventure and adventure sport, and which we discuss I?m sure will depend on what you guys want to talk about on the day. I guess the most discussed of all is of course the issue of risk. I?m never sure whether it?s because I?ve studied, written and talked about the subject for years now, or whether I rub noses with it a lot, or whether I?m getting older. But when I observe attitudes to risk in some others or society in general, I get quite riled. I?m a passive sort of chap and that doesn?t happen easily. It strikes me that the general attitudes to risk and which risks are acceptable are not in my society has got progressively more messed up in my lifetime. My sport of climbing has been a welcome sanctuary of sense a lot of the time! It seems that people are content to take huge risks with life, limb or lifestyle without giving much thought (or none at all), yet are aghast at others risk taking that is proportionally far smaller, or balanced against much greater reward.I?m being a little provocative here of course. I know that it?s a question of perception. A lot of our grave errors in risk awareness and management aren?t really our fault. We?re not hardwired to cope with the sorts of risks of modern life, and the corrupting influences of the media compound this to a quite staggering level. So more on this on the 24th? See you there maybe for a lively chat.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesIndoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear Climbing photos

Jodicus direct and clean

Starting up Jodicus Direct (without the peg) E7 6cI was a bit bleary-eyed this morning heading out to meet Richard and Steve for an attack on Wave Buttress after yesterday?s good session at Steall. Yesterday, my ankle managed 90 minutes on steep tensiony climbing before tightening up. Today I was keen to get it moving on a sustained slab and work it a little bit harder.Wave Buttress had an obvious challenge. In the early nineties Mark Mcgowan crimped his way up the honeycombed wall of Jodicus Direct. But with a pre-placed long sling enabling a peg to be clipped right before the crux, it was a bit of a weird proposition and never got popular. A few years ago the peg was removed but the climb was never re-led. An obvious challenge then to make a clean ascent ?sans fer?, this time running it out on the 6c crux above an RP3.I gave it a quick clean and play on the moves to wake myself up and then worried whether it was a good idea as I still in pain walking in tussocky grass at the base of the cliff. What the hell - suck it up. 

I was glad I did. A fine E7 6c. Afterwards all I could do was shuffle off for two dinners and a bath. But who cares.

Richard on Crackattack E3 6a

Steve On The Beach E5 6aDave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesCat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

Beginner?s Guide to Sport Climbing Red Rocks, Nevada

Red Rocks, Nevada is one of my favorite climbing destinations. Located just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, the combination of Sin City + fantastic climbing can make for an interesting vacation, if you’re so inclined. Like my Beginner’s Guide To Rock Climbing in Thailand, I focus on sport climbs in the 5.6 to [...]Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing

A rock climbing training blog - why?

If you are hoping to improve your ability or learn more about training techniques and tools, then this blog will give you some of the answers - because that’s what I’m going to do too!
I’ve been climbing for about three years and have developed enough basic ability to get me up 6a routes. I’ve set [...]Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 2

Stac Lee, St Kilda looking amazing

Quick reminder to tune into the second part of our 5 Climbs, 5 Islands adventure tonight, 7pm, BBC2 Scotland, Sky 990, Freesat 970 and iPlayer for streaming or downloading later if you miss it. There seems to have been a wee delay before the download comes online on iplayer after the scheduled showing ends so don?t fret if you can?t get it immediately.Tonight we are on Lewis, Great Bernera and on a mission out to St Kilda.

Heading into no man?s land on St Kilda

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

Sibling Rivalry - Mount Adams vs. Mount Hood

Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Anti-slabs in Margalef

After a summer of climbing a lot of slabs, I?ve been climbing for the last two weeks in the giant roofs of Margalef. Here?s a wee clip of climbing and 8b and 8c (might be 8c+ now after I broke a crucial hold) in the roof of Sector Finestra. These are definitely not slabs!Part of the fun of climbing here right now is it?s good therapy for an injury I picked up recently. More on this over on my Online Climbing Coach blog here.






Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 2

Stac Lee, St Kilda looking amazing

Quick reminder to tune into the second part of our 5 Climbs, 5 Islands adventure tonight, 7pm, BBC2 Scotland, Sky 990, Freesat 970 and iPlayer for streaming or downloading later if you miss it. There seems to have been a wee delay before the download comes online on iplayer after the scheduled showing ends so don?t fret if you can?t get it immediately.Tonight we are on Lewis, Great Bernera and on a mission out to St Kilda.

Heading into no man?s land on St Kilda

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

A rock climbing training blog - why?

If you are hoping to improve your ability or learn more about training techniques and tools, then this blog will give you some of the answers - because that’s what I’m going to do too!
I’ve been climbing for about three years and have developed enough basic ability to get me up 6a routes. I’ve set [...]Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/18/10

Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

here we go again

Sorry its been so long! AND you’re gonna have to wait a little longer…. HAHA… This site is under construction but stay tuned for the new and impoved mattsegal.com
mAtt
Climbing photos Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yangshuo, China

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

One Last Trip to Mount Baker before the Winter Season

Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Rock Climbing ? El Rito, NM

Lauren & I roll into El Rito just as the heat gets hot. We decide not to climb in the rubber melting temperature, so we hike to the Trad Area for an exploratory look. The route to the Trad Area was a few miles down the gravel road from the Sport Area, and [...]Cat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yosemite Valley

Although Yosemite Valley is known mainly for the towering granite monoliths of El Capitan and Half Dome, it also has plenty of easier trad climbing classics. This guide covers a number of trad climbs in the 5.5 to 5.7 range for beginning traditional climbers. Be wary of climbing grades in Yosemite, as they [...]Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

5 climbs, 5 islands scheduled on BBC2

The 5 climbs, 5 islands film has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland! Originally filmed as a back up for the Great Climb programme in case of atrocious weather, injuries etc (we got both but still managed it!), we had a great adventure and I think you?ll like the film.We travelled about the Hebrides on a big boat, attempting some really hard new routes back to back over 5 days. You?ll have to watch the programmes to see the outcome but I can tell you it was the best trip I?ve had new routing in the Hebrides, certainly one of the hardest and definitely with the most falls!The culmination of the trip trying a brilliant 2 pitch line of perfect black Gabbro on St Kilda was unbelievable.It will be shown in two x 1 hour shows, BBC2 Scotland, Sky, iplayer October 19th and 26th at 19.00. Enjoy!


Some pics from St Kilda on the 5 climbs, 5 islands trip. Photos: Triple Echo



My previous blog about the trip is here.Dave MacLeod

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Day Hike ? Milner Pass to Bear Lake Continental Divide Traverse

When Dennis & I were forced to retreat off the summit ramp of Mt. Ida a couple summers ago, I vowed to return and claim victory. Boy, did I ever!

Lucky for me, intrepid CMC trip leader, Dominique, came up with a marvelous scheme: Hike from Milner Pass to Bear Lake bagging peaks along [...]Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

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The Lions vs The Eagles

Joe & Brenda treated Dennis & I to see the Lions Season Opener vs The Eagles at Ford Field. This was almost a dream come true for Dennis. The only improvement on the day would have been if the Lions could have pulled off a win. They were very close. [...]Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains Mount everest

here we go again

Sorry its been so long! AND you’re gonna have to wait a little longer…. HAHA… This site is under construction but stay tuned for the new and impoved mattsegal.com
mAtt
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Guides To Worldwide Climbing Destinations

I love traveling to rock climb, but sometimes it can be difficult to find information about faraway rock climbing areas. So, I thought it would be useful for climbers to have access to a map of climbing destinations that linked to the best guidebook or online resource for each area. So, I put [...]Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Jonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge

Jonathan Siegrist cleans up another longstanding 5.14 project at Kentucky's Red River GorgeJonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge from ClimbingNarc.com



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Productive Weekend At The Red River Gorge For Siegrist & Pringle
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Rockstar Watch At The Red River Gorge: Chris Sharma Sends 2 5.14s, 5.15 On The Horizon??
Rocktoberfest 2010 & Updated Red River Gorge Guidebook
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Back in the UK!

It?s been a few weeks since I?ve sat down to write, I?ve just been psyched on other things. BUT the time has come and I?m back on the road! I somehow managed to escape the bubble of Boulder and after 17 hours of travel, I?m sipping tea in Bristol, England? Whooopie! SO psyched to be [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Squamish

Not much to say except the cracks were splitter, the rock was bomber and I got hooked.






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Transcendence

After a great trip in Wales we headed to Northumberland, an amazing little sandstone area. The climbing is similar to the grit stone in the Peak District except instead of being slopey friction climbing its crimpy gymnastic pulling! I was pretty psyched since this is more my style of climbing?

The goal was to repeat Transcendence [...]Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

Conditions Report - November 17 2010

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Guides To Worldwide Climbing Destinations

I love traveling to rock climb, but sometimes it can be difficult to find information about faraway rock climbing areas. So, I thought it would be useful for climbers to have access to a map of climbing destinations that linked to the best guidebook or online resource for each area. So, I put [...]Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

10 Q's - Discovery Channel Mag [2]

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5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 1

Galta Mor, the Shaints - the location of our first ?5 Islands? challenge route; The Puffin Diaries E7 6c,6bDid you catch it on TV last night? If you missed it, you?ll get it on iPlayer right here and if you are abroad you?ll be able to see it using this website (or wait for the DVD...). Remember to tune in again next Tuesday (26th) at 7pm to catch the second half of the story. If you don?t want to know how we got on in the first two days of the challenge, best stop reading this post here! All pics: by me courtesy of Triple Echo Productions


Cleaning pitch 2 the day before the start of the challenge. So first up was the Shiants. We didn?t know of any recorded routes on the islands other than some scary stories of attempts on loose basalt chimneys back in the day. The wave washed basalt in the arch was fantastic stuff. The only problem we had was that all the cliffs with good rock were north facing and the rain was coming down good style until about 12 hours before we were due to start. You saw the result of the damp rock under the roofs - a sudden slip and plummet. Thankfully that arete wasn?t too sharp on the rope! The roofs were about 7c+ but with reasonably good gear. Pitch 2 was a stiff E5 6b finger crack. So the whole route went at hard E7 6c,6b - The Puffin Diaries.


The Shaints have 2% of the worlds Puffin populationThe second day was really going to be the toughest of the challenge. As it turned out it didn?t really work out that way, but that?s for next week?s show... The big horizontal roof on Creag Mo was about 7c+ or 8a before the crucial hold came off and possibly 8a+ afterwards. Or maybe I was just getting tired after throwing myself at it several times? On my recce for the production in May I semi-aided/free climbed out to that slot, removing a LOT of loose rock because the roof marks the line of weakness between the Mica Schist below and the bullet hard Lewissian Gneiss above. I dynoed for the slot and had a desperate time trying to get a cam in it along with my fingers and take a rest to clean it. And yet it broke straight off on the crucial lead day! Weird. Anyhow, the result was a harder route and I suppose more entertaining to watch me failing so many times. 


Arriving in Loch Seaforth to head to Creag Mo, HarrisIt wasn?t too entertaining at the time I can tell you. The pressure of the entire project?s success or failure for Tim, the crew and the BBC production resting on me getting across that roof on my last try was kind of thick in the air. I think the relief on my face was obvious. The Realm, E8 6c, 6b is one of the best mountain E8s in Britain (The best E8 in Britain is still The Great Escape on Arran by the way). Did you spot the ?Indian Face of the future? project just right of The Realm? 


Boat lifeIt was funny Tim pointing out in the program that I was psyched to do as hard routes as possible on the challenge. I really should have known that choosing to try and do climbs as hard as E7 and E8 back to back that haven?t been done before so aren?t pre-cleaned and have all the unknowns removed would put the whole project at risk. The reason was that I just got carried away by the quality of the lines! It just seemed like if we were going to climb a new route on a brilliant cliff like Creag Mo, then it was obvious it had to be across the roof. When a lot of people?s time and money is being spent on a big crew of people being there to film us climbing and make a good TV programme, making it work is really high on the priority list. I made a judgement call that super high motivation to take the rare opportunity to nail such remote, good and hard routes would win out against having no margin to absorb setbacks. It worked so far...


Sometimes naming routes is hard, sometimes not.



Seconding Tim on day 3 on Lewis? 7pm next Tuesday for episode 2. Pic: Cubby Images/Triple EchoDave MacLeod

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