Triaxal Loading on Trees

Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

World Climbing Calendar 2011

Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Mini-Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Passu, Pakistan

Overview
The Karakoram Highway stretches about 1300 kilometers from near Islamabad, Pakistan to Kashgar, China. It curls through amazing terrain along the way with views of many 7000 meter peaks and glaciers reaching nearly to the road. Many tourists travel the entire length, stopping at villages along the way to take in the sights, trek and [...]Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

5 climbs, 5 islands scheduled on BBC2

The 5 climbs, 5 islands film has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland! Originally filmed as a back up for the Great Climb programme in case of atrocious weather, injuries etc (we got both but still managed it!), we had a great adventure and I think you?ll like the film.We travelled about the Hebrides on a big boat, attempting some really hard new routes back to back over 5 days. You?ll have to watch the programmes to see the outcome but I can tell you it was the best trip I?ve had new routing in the Hebrides, certainly one of the hardest and definitely with the most falls!The culmination of the trip trying a brilliant 2 pitch line of perfect black Gabbro on St Kilda was unbelievable.It will be shown in two x 1 hour shows, BBC2 Scotland, Sky, iplayer October 19th and 26th at 19.00. Enjoy!


Some pics from St Kilda on the 5 climbs, 5 islands trip. Photos: Triple Echo



My previous blog about the trip is here.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you Stoked!!

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Disneyworld Hollywood Studios

On our last full day in Florida, we decided to check out Hollywood Studios. It was fun, but I liked the Animal Kingdom better. We went on the Aerosmith ride, checked out little NYC, and enjoyed a ride which was a tour of Hollywood Classics.
In the afternoon, we met up with Brett [...]Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Bouldering Burbage photos

Finally a little sun! Yesterday I went climbing in Burbage (specifically Burbage south boulders) in the Peak District near Sheffield. I’m really glad I’ve got these boulders within 15 minutes of my home.
Although in a climbing wall / gym I’m happy on 6a/6b the techniques on grit boulders are a different world: lots of smearing [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

The more you climb, the better you?ll climb

I have had a few days away from climbing - in fact, my last session was 3 weekends ago at Froggatt - and so I got back to the gym this week. My local gym has an auto-belay setup so I was able to do some indoor routes without company.
And I struggled! Struggled to get [...]Rock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

Behunin Canyon ? Zion Canyoneering

More adventures like this...

Thanks to everyone (there was a LOT) who sent me a message to say you really enjoyed the 5 Climbs, 5 Islands programmes. Episode 2 is still on BBC iPlayer for a few days. If you miss it, it?ll be on DVD soon so don?t worry.Watching it myself reminded me how much this type of adventure is really what I like and hope I can keep doing them as long as I?m still around. A lot of folk commented about how I did like to try as hard routes as possible on this type of thing - that?s totally true. I totally need to feel that I might not be able to do it, or even more that I actually can?t do it, but learn along the way how to figure out how to make it work. That process of focusing in and getting really absorbed in the task in hand seems to be hardwired in me. I don?t know exactly where it comes from. I get very frustrated and wrestless when there is a barrier between me and focusing properly on the task. I find it pretty hard to accept that things upset progress and take that in my stride. I tend to respond by going even deeper into the obsessive zone. Climbing yields really well under this approach, which is pretty much the core reason why I got better at it slowly. Up to a point it works really well in other fields too, but at a big cost.It leads to a funny situation in that as a climbing coach I spend most of my time trying to encourage people to adopt this approach, but a lot of my adult life has been spent trying to blunt it myself. The Triple 5 programmes and The Great Climb I hope gave a decent insight into how these things work out in climbing. On that day my normal focus was totally destroyed every time I put my mashed up ankle on a foothold. Half of me wanted to give up and half of me wanted to shut it out and keep climbing. So ?machine? mode won out and I just went a bit quiet and kept grabbing holds til we were on top. It seemed to me that Tim had pretty much the same experience on the soaking wet finishing pitch. It would have been very very easy to admit defeat then.The experiences of this summer made me think again about the big one - my project of freeing the original aid line of the Longhope Route on Orkney. If ever there was a climb that demanded and would reward the obsessive approach it?s that one. Perfect really. After this year?s shortlived trips up there I realised I probably wasn?t good enough to do it last year, or this. But I?m still learning a lot about the tactics and training needed to make it work. Looking forward to standing underneath it again next summer with fresh energy to throw at it.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing clothes Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing

Couple of videos: Pinnacle Trailer and the cave

Here is the trailer for The Pinnacle DVD, ice climbing on Ben Nevis following in the footsteps of Smith and Marshall. Brilliant for the winter psyche!The DVD is in the shop here.




This is an extended clip of Michael making a determined second ascent of my own problem Bone Broke (Font 7c) in the Arisaig Cave last week. The wee fire was great, shame the wind was blowing it into the cave for the full winter cave dwelling experience!

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

A rock climbing training blog - why?

If you are hoping to improve your ability or learn more about training techniques and tools, then this blog will give you some of the answers - because that’s what I’m going to do too!
I’ve been climbing for about three years and have developed enough basic ability to get me up 6a routes. I’ve set [...]Famous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Disneyworld Hollywood Studios

On our last full day in Florida, we decided to check out Hollywood Studios. It was fun, but I liked the Animal Kingdom better. We went on the Aerosmith ride, checked out little NYC, and enjoyed a ride which was a tour of Hollywood Classics.
In the afternoon, we met up with Brett [...]Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

December and January Climbing Events

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Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010

2010 AORE Conference

Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

The Backpack as Luggage

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Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/18/10

Rock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

World Climbing Calendar 2011

American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

Yangshuo Climbing Festival, Day 1

Today was the first full day of the First Annual Yanshuo Climbing Festival, sponsored by The North Face and Black Diamond. There were hundreds of climbers, volunteers, and spectators out for the event, which was spread across three crags. We were at White Mountain, the main venue, for the whole day.


The redpoint climbing [...]Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!

York climbers Cat climbers Mast climbers

ABS Nationals

I know this was a while ago, but here are some photos from ABS Nationals taken by Tara Gee

Me on problem 2… I was pretty psyched to make finals!

Alex Puccio

Daniel Woods

Ethan Pringle

Emily Herrington

Lisa Rands
Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

Guides To Worldwide Climbing Destinations

I love traveling to rock climb, but sometimes it can be difficult to find information about faraway rock climbing areas. So, I thought it would be useful for climbers to have access to a map of climbing destinations that linked to the best guidebook or online resource for each area. So, I put [...]Mast climbers Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing

Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD

Looking for the perfect stocking stuffer for the climbing addict in your life? Then look no further than the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour which is now available on DVD and digital download.Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD from ClimbingNarc.com



Related posts:2010 Reel Rock Film Tour & Paul Robinson Update
2010 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
2009 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
Reel Rock Film Tour Coming To An Area Near You
2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Contest Now Open
Vote In The 2010 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Vote For The Winners Of The 2008 Reel Rock Tour Filmmaking Competition
Vote In The 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD

Looking for the perfect stocking stuffer for the climbing addict in your life? Then look no further than the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour which is now available on DVD and digital download.Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD from ClimbingNarc.com



Related posts:2010 Reel Rock Film Tour & Paul Robinson Update
2010 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
2009 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
Reel Rock Film Tour Coming To An Area Near You
2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Contest Now Open
Vote In The 2010 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Vote For The Winners Of The 2008 Reel Rock Tour Filmmaking Competition
Vote In The 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

The Trango ?08 Expedition

This past September, we trekked to K2 base camp and Trango Tower base camp. At Trango Tower base camp, we happened to meet a group of rock climbers and filmmakers on the Trango 08 expedition. They were attempting the first free ascent of ‘Eternal Flame’ (VI 5.12b A0) on Nameless Tower in the [...]Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear Climbing photos

Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010

2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Stone Fort Results

Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras continue their dominance of the 2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series at a wet Stone Fort2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Stone Fort Results from ClimbingNarc.com



Related posts:2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Little Rock City/Stone Fort Results
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Little Rock City/Stone Fort Results
2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: HP40 Results
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: HP40 Results
2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
Triple Crown 2007: Stone Fort/LRC
Evergreen climbers York climbers Cat climbers

2010 AORE Conference

Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 2

Stac Lee, St Kilda looking amazing

Quick reminder to tune into the second part of our 5 Climbs, 5 Islands adventure tonight, 7pm, BBC2 Scotland, Sky 990, Freesat 970 and iPlayer for streaming or downloading later if you miss it. There seems to have been a wee delay before the download comes online on iplayer after the scheduled showing ends so don?t fret if you can?t get it immediately.Tonight we are on Lewis, Great Bernera and on a mission out to St Kilda.

Heading into no man?s land on St Kilda

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesJeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Rock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

The Pinnacle DVD is here

Hot Aches Productions DVD about our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis is ready. Tomorrow (Friday) I?m at the premiere of the film in Kendal and will be picking up our DVD stock from Diff there and dispatching orders when we come home on Monday. It?s up in the shop to order if you want a copy, right here.In case you missed my previous posts about our week, this is what all the fuss is about: In 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, probably the best ice climbers anywhere at the time completed a week of back to back first ascents of cutting edge ice routes on Ben Nevis. The first one-day ascent of Point Five Gully, first ascents of Pigott?s Route, Smith?s Route, The Great Chimney, Minus 3 Gully, Orion Face Direct and a traverse of the Grey Corries as their ?rest day?. It was a massive step forward and took the generation behind them a good decade and the development of modern ice tools to catch up. Step cutting these routes day after day was a fantastic feat of skill and endurance. It became a bit of a legend in Scottish climbing, to say the least.Hence, 50 years later, to the day, myself and Andy Turner felt it would be great to go and repeat the week of climbs and make a film about it with Hot Aches Productions. We had a great night after our week with Jimmy Marshall himself, talking about the week at the Fort William Mountain Festival (which you?ll find as an extra on the DVD along with an extensive interview with Jimmy who is now 82). Since then, Paul Diffley has been preparing the edit of the film itself.It recounts the story of Jimmy and Robin?s adventure and achievement, shows off the routes and the Ben itself rather beautifully I think. It did help that we had a stunning week of weather on our re-enactment.Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed making it.

About to top out on Point Five Gully during our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis.

Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yangshuo, China

The more you climb, the better you?ll climb

I have had a few days away from climbing - in fact, my last session was 3 weekends ago at Froggatt - and so I got back to the gym this week. My local gym has an auto-belay setup so I was able to do some indoor routes without company.
And I struggled! Struggled to get [...]Climbing videos Moon climbing Climbing board

Conditions Report - December 1st 2010

Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

First bouldering at Stanage Plantation, Derbyshire, UK

Location: Stanage Plantation
Date: Sunday 27 July
Sunday shone this weekend. A planned trip to the gym was quickly canned and instead we made a trip out to a new bouldering spot. After a recommendation that Stanage plantation had some good climbing (thanks Jonny!) we checked my bouldering guide book and set out.
If you’re reading this wondering [...]Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Off Topic ? Learning to Snowboard

What is the point of having a blog if you can’t solicit advice every now and again?
I just got hooked on snowboarding and am looking for a decent beginner snowboard, bindings, boots combo.
What I am looking at right now is:

Burton Ruler boots
Burton Cartel or Mission bindings
Burton Bullet or Custom Wide for a board

I know I [...]Cat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

Triaxal Loading on Trees

Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]York climbers Cat climbers Mast climbers

The Trango ?08 Expedition

This past September, we trekked to K2 base camp and Trango Tower base camp. At Trango Tower base camp, we happened to meet a group of rock climbers and filmmakers on the Trango 08 expedition. They were attempting the first free ascent of ‘Eternal Flame’ (VI 5.12b A0) on Nameless Tower in the [...]Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

Bouldering Burbage photos

Finally a little sun! Yesterday I went climbing in Burbage (specifically Burbage south boulders) in the Peak District near Sheffield. I’m really glad I’ve got these boulders within 15 minutes of my home.
Although in a climbing wall / gym I’m happy on 6a/6b the techniques on grit boulders are a different world: lots of smearing [...]Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

World Climbing Calendar 2011

Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos

Die by the Drop E10 7a

After a a couple of weeks of October deluge in the highlands, the mountains had turned an amazing bright gold colour lit up by a rare morning of sunshine. I took my chance and headed out to Glenfinnan with Kev for a look at the slab. I was off to Spain that evening, so it was worth going for a look even just for a few hours. On arrival at Lochailort and inspection of the slab through my binoculars, it was still soaking. Over several brews in Arisaig?s caf?, we discussed how precious it was to be have dry days on mountain crag projects in Scotland. It had been over two weeks of waiting since our last day at the slab, and I realised it would over three before I could come back again after a trip away and some work for sponsors. The discussion was ringing in my ears when we arrived at the crag at noon to find my E10 project almost dry. It isn?t a long route so I there were no excuses about needing to work sections of it anymore. I knew exactly what to do and that it would never be any easier to lead than today. So why not? Well, because the knowledge of the moves meant I knew how easy it would be to fall. A desperate snatch for a thumb press and another for a poor smear were definitely low percentage moves, above a sole microwire in dubious rock and a couple of comedy skyhooks in a flake you could pull off with the same force as you?d need to open a fridge door.I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I?d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top.What a great experience and I must say I felt a lot better after it and that I?d decided to go for it. It?s a slab so who knows what bloody grade to give it? I know there are some hard slabs out there, and I also know I?m an awful slab climber. So all I can really do is compare it to recent slabs and other trad routes I?ve climbed: Harder than Indian Face & Walk of Life? Check. Harder than If Six Was Nine? Check. Harder than Muy Caliente? Check. Etc etc... So maybe it scrapes into E10 7a. PS: Will post up some video stills and pics when I?m home from Spain.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing exercises Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing

The Pinnacle wins at Kendal

I?m just home from the Kendal Mountain festival where I had a great couple of nights speaking about The Pinnacle film and The Great Climb. The Pinnacle won the People?s Choice prize for the best film at the festival - thanks for voting for it!It?s great that people liked it so much. It was a great vibe at the premiere and watching the film for the first time I just felt so glad that we were able to make it. I think Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith?s story is as inspiring as ever and the film shows off Ben Nevis at it?s absolute best.Diff gave me a pile of Pinnacle DVDs to take home and Claire has just dispatched all the pre-orders today. I had a watch of the extras this morning, which include our live show with myself and Andy Turner talking with Jimmy at last year?s Fort William Mountain Festival, Diff?s full uncut interview with Jimmy for the film, and also Heatherhat?s film about my first ascent of Don?t Die of Ignorance (XI,11) with Joe French on the Ben. All the info about the DVD is in the shop here.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Camera Extreme Laureate

Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing

William Shatner Explains the Motivations of Climbers

Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing

Yosemite Rockfall

Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

Anti-slabs in Margalef

After a summer of climbing a lot of slabs, I?ve been climbing for the last two weeks in the giant roofs of Margalef. Here?s a wee clip of climbing and 8b and 8c (might be 8c+ now after I broke a crucial hold) in the roof of Sector Finestra. These are definitely not slabs!Part of the fun of climbing here right now is it?s good therapy for an injury I picked up recently. More on this over on my Online Climbing Coach blog here.






Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/25/10

Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux Mount royal

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yangshuo, China

Mountain Equipment?s Chill slackline sets are now in stock in the shop - the 15 metre ?entry level? set. A little wider at 40mm?Also back in stock is the To Hell and Back DVD which some of you have been asking for.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesPictures climbing Mount kinabalu photos Famous mountains

Transcendence

After a great trip in Wales we headed to Northumberland, an amazing little sandstone area. The climbing is similar to the grit stone in the Peak District except instead of being slopey friction climbing its crimpy gymnastic pulling! I was pretty psyched since this is more my style of climbing?

The goal was to repeat Transcendence [...]Climbing videos Moon climbing Climbing board

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

Film Review: 127 Hours

Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

Hot Aches DVDs offers

Red River Gorgeous [3]

Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers

ME Slackline sets are here too

I?ve just uploaded the new Slackline sets from Mountain Equipment to our shop right here. They have been super popular for ME and so they?ve updated them again this year. There are three sets, the Pro, Passion and Chill. We are getting the Chill in shortly when the new stock arrives at ME.Both the Pro and Passion sets have a 25mm wide slackline with 3m padded anchor slings and heavy duty ratchets for racking them up. The Passion is 18 metres long and the Pro is 25m. Enjoy!


Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing exercises Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing

Devil's Tower

Mount linux Mount royal Rock climbing exercises

Disneyworld Hollywood Studios

On our last full day in Florida, we decided to check out Hollywood Studios. It was fun, but I liked the Animal Kingdom better. We went on the Aerosmith ride, checked out little NYC, and enjoyed a ride which was a tour of Hollywood Classics.
In the afternoon, we met up with Brett [...]Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

Conditions Report - November 17 2010

Climbing clothes Jeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing

More adventures like this...

Thanks to everyone (there was a LOT) who sent me a message to say you really enjoyed the 5 Climbs, 5 Islands programmes. Episode 2 is still on BBC iPlayer for a few days. If you miss it, it?ll be on DVD soon so don?t worry.Watching it myself reminded me how much this type of adventure is really what I like and hope I can keep doing them as long as I?m still around. A lot of folk commented about how I did like to try as hard routes as possible on this type of thing - that?s totally true. I totally need to feel that I might not be able to do it, or even more that I actually can?t do it, but learn along the way how to figure out how to make it work. That process of focusing in and getting really absorbed in the task in hand seems to be hardwired in me. I don?t know exactly where it comes from. I get very frustrated and wrestless when there is a barrier between me and focusing properly on the task. I find it pretty hard to accept that things upset progress and take that in my stride. I tend to respond by going even deeper into the obsessive zone. Climbing yields really well under this approach, which is pretty much the core reason why I got better at it slowly. Up to a point it works really well in other fields too, but at a big cost.It leads to a funny situation in that as a climbing coach I spend most of my time trying to encourage people to adopt this approach, but a lot of my adult life has been spent trying to blunt it myself. The Triple 5 programmes and The Great Climb I hope gave a decent insight into how these things work out in climbing. On that day my normal focus was totally destroyed every time I put my mashed up ankle on a foothold. Half of me wanted to give up and half of me wanted to shut it out and keep climbing. So ?machine? mode won out and I just went a bit quiet and kept grabbing holds til we were on top. It seemed to me that Tim had pretty much the same experience on the soaking wet finishing pitch. It would have been very very easy to admit defeat then.The experiences of this summer made me think again about the big one - my project of freeing the original aid line of the Longhope Route on Orkney. If ever there was a climb that demanded and would reward the obsessive approach it?s that one. Perfect really. After this year?s shortlived trips up there I realised I probably wasn?t good enough to do it last year, or this. But I?m still learning a lot about the tactics and training needed to make it work. Looking forward to standing underneath it again next summer with fresh energy to throw at it.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesRock climbing gear Climbing photos Climbing pictures

Conditions Report - November 17 2010

Climbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Yangshuo Climbing Festival, Day 1

Today was the first full day of the First Annual Yanshuo Climbing Festival, sponsored by The North Face and Black Diamond. There were hundreds of climbers, volunteers, and spectators out for the event, which was spread across three crags. We were at White Mountain, the main venue, for the whole day.


The redpoint climbing [...]Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Thought provoking afternoon

Just in from a shivery afternoon under black skies and gales in Glenfinnan. Kev couldn?t make it out for sessions on the slab so I took the shunt and worked more on the harder of the two projects there. When I originally looked at it I could see that it was possible but it looked like an E11 slab (!) Can you imagine how nails that would have to be?But after some hours of deciphering I decoded a sequence and with much wild slapping for various tiny things, got it linked on the top rope. Oh dear. There is also one microwire placement. A poor one, but enough to make it seem like it could be the coming down towards the top of the E10 band, and something I would at least think about leading.Most of the hard trad routes I?ve done are much better protected than this, and a LOT easier. The only harder route I?ve done is Echo Wall probably, but that suited my style being steep and technical. I?m a crap slab climber on the whole. Having said that, I?ve tried to climb some harder slabs to get better at them. Comparing this line to other slabs like Indian Face or The Walk of Life in my mind - they are easy warm-ups against this line, and a lot better protected. A lot of much better microwires would have to rip on Indian Face before you?d be in trouble on a fall. This route only has one, shallow, flared and in quite soft rock.Unfortunately there?s no way I could lead this slab with any kind of margin. It?s a full on, all out desperate slap, scream and wobble fest to get through the crux. And that?s on a top rope. The landing looks like it might only dish out broken legs. It?s only a 40 foot route. But the chances of a scary tumble would be high. Thought provoking? I can?t decide if it?s a good thing that the forecast looks rubbish until I go to Spain.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesJeep rock climbing Indoor rock Climbing Rock climbing gear

November and December 2010 Climbing Events

Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Cascades by Air

Ablakov V Thread without the V Threader

Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010

Photos from Hueco!

I know… Its been a while… SORRY! Not sure where to begin, a lot has gone down… I had a fun week in Hueco after the epic in Albuquerque. It was nice to finally be back in the desert with no worries, but time flew by and before I knew it we were back in [...]Climbing photos Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Uncle Chet Memorial

We heard sad news today that Uncle Chet passed away. I’m not sure his age at passing, but he had a long life and was devoted to Aunt Shirley. We had a chance to visit with them about a year ago, and it was really nice. Uncle Chet loved to tell stories, [...]Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings Climb aconcagua

The Sea Cliffs of Pembroke?

Fighting jetlag is always a challenge, especially when the weather is perfect and you know its not going to last. I spent the last few days battling my jetlag at one of the most inspiring climbing destinations I?ve ever been to: the sea cliffs of Pembroke in South Wales. Its breath taking, absolutely amazing limestone [...]Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro

News & Notes ? 11/29/2010

Feast on the latest edition of News & Notes with news about several repeats of Dave Graham V15s in Europe, a tragic accident in Red Rocks, a lesson about the importance of helmets from Beth Rodden and more...News & Notes – 11/29/2010 from ClimbingNarc.com



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Squamish

Not much to say except the cracks were splitter, the rock was bomber and I got hooked.






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More adventures like this...

Thanks to everyone (there was a LOT) who sent me a message to say you really enjoyed the 5 Climbs, 5 Islands programmes. Episode 2 is still on BBC iPlayer for a few days. If you miss it, it?ll be on DVD soon so don?t worry.Watching it myself reminded me how much this type of adventure is really what I like and hope I can keep doing them as long as I?m still around. A lot of folk commented about how I did like to try as hard routes as possible on this type of thing - that?s totally true. I totally need to feel that I might not be able to do it, or even more that I actually can?t do it, but learn along the way how to figure out how to make it work. That process of focusing in and getting really absorbed in the task in hand seems to be hardwired in me. I don?t know exactly where it comes from. I get very frustrated and wrestless when there is a barrier between me and focusing properly on the task. I find it pretty hard to accept that things upset progress and take that in my stride. I tend to respond by going even deeper into the obsessive zone. Climbing yields really well under this approach, which is pretty much the core reason why I got better at it slowly. Up to a point it works really well in other fields too, but at a big cost.It leads to a funny situation in that as a climbing coach I spend most of my time trying to encourage people to adopt this approach, but a lot of my adult life has been spent trying to blunt it myself. The Triple 5 programmes and The Great Climb I hope gave a decent insight into how these things work out in climbing. On that day my normal focus was totally destroyed every time I put my mashed up ankle on a foothold. Half of me wanted to give up and half of me wanted to shut it out and keep climbing. So ?machine? mode won out and I just went a bit quiet and kept grabbing holds til we were on top. It seemed to me that Tim had pretty much the same experience on the soaking wet finishing pitch. It would have been very very easy to admit defeat then.The experiences of this summer made me think again about the big one - my project of freeing the original aid line of the Longhope Route on Orkney. If ever there was a climb that demanded and would reward the obsessive approach it?s that one. Perfect really. After this year?s shortlived trips up there I realised I probably wasn?t good enough to do it last year, or this. But I?m still learning a lot about the tactics and training needed to make it work. Looking forward to standing underneath it again next summer with fresh energy to throw at it.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesCat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

2010 AORE Conference

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Explorer's Festival Poland

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Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills (V14)

27Crags reports that Paul Robinson did the 2nd ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Ninja Skills, a beautiful and long V14 in Sobrio, Switzerland. According to the report Robinson felt it compared in difficulty to Dreamtime (V14) which he did recently as well. You can see footage of Hukkataival’s FA of Ninja Skills in this excellent video. [...]Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills (V14) from ClimbingNarc.com



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First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

Back in the UK!

It?s been a few weeks since I?ve sat down to write, I?ve just been psyched on other things. BUT the time has come and I?m back on the road! I somehow managed to escape the bubble of Boulder and after 17 hours of travel, I?m sipping tea in Bristol, England? Whooopie! SO psyched to be [...]Cat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

2 Swiss V15s For Adam Ondra

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/25/10

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J-Tree

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Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/25/10

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New 8b at Steall, Glen Nevis

Since the conditions got kinda frozen last week I was eager to see if the drips of Steall would freeze at source and allow me to see off an obvious link-up project. A few months ago I did a new 8a+ called The Gurrie, between Leopold and Steall Appeal. So named because I started up it only intending to work out the first 4 moves off the deck and ended up growling and scuffling my way through the crux bulge to the chain.The obvious link was to take in the second crux of Steall Appeal to bump it to soft 8b. Once I?d worked a sequence around the icicles at the top, I stuck my handwarmer ?teabag? in the chalkbag and got it done. Video below:


Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

Gone Trekkin?

I’ve been trekking in Pakistan for the past month, so I haven’t been climbing much recently. However, I found a few sweet climbs in Pakistan that I’ll be posting about soon. I’m done with the Karakoram Highway and now am heading down the Silk Road on my way to more climbing in Southern China, [...]American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD

Looking for the perfect stocking stuffer for the climbing addict in your life? Then look no further than the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour which is now available on DVD and digital download.Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD from ClimbingNarc.com



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Conditions Report - December 1st 2010

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Bouldering Burbage photos

Finally a little sun! Yesterday I went climbing in Burbage (specifically Burbage south boulders) in the Peak District near Sheffield. I’m really glad I’ve got these boulders within 15 minutes of my home.
Although in a climbing wall / gym I’m happy on 6a/6b the techniques on grit boulders are a different world: lots of smearing [...]Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

Uncle Chet Memorial

We heard sad news today that Uncle Chet passed away. I’m not sure his age at passing, but he had a long life and was devoted to Aunt Shirley. We had a chance to visit with them about a year ago, and it was really nice. Uncle Chet loved to tell stories, [...]Climb aconcagua Climbing videos Moon climbing

Die by the Drop pics + another new E8

December and January Climbing Events

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Die by the Drop pics + another new E8

Logging in the PNW

Even if you think logging is the devil’s work, you have to admit it does make for some pretty cool patterns.
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Video Friday: Lincoln Lake GIANTS!

Louder Than 11's 4 part series called Lincoln Lake GIANTS! about the bouldering at Mt. Evan's Lincoln Lake came to an end this week so now seems like a good time to revisit the entire series.Video Friday: Lincoln Lake GIANTS! from ClimbingNarc.com



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Dawn Wall Debrief From Kevin Jorgeson

Interview with Kevin Jorgeson after his and Tommy Caldwell's unsuccessful attempt to free their Dawn Wall project on El CapitanDawn Wall Debrief From Kevin Jorgeson from ClimbingNarc.com



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First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Evergreen climbers York climbers Cat climbers

First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Mount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

5 climbs, 5 islands scheduled on BBC2

The 5 climbs, 5 islands film has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland! Originally filmed as a back up for the Great Climb programme in case of atrocious weather, injuries etc (we got both but still managed it!), we had a great adventure and I think you?ll like the film.We travelled about the Hebrides on a big boat, attempting some really hard new routes back to back over 5 days. You?ll have to watch the programmes to see the outcome but I can tell you it was the best trip I?ve had new routing in the Hebrides, certainly one of the hardest and definitely with the most falls!The culmination of the trip trying a brilliant 2 pitch line of perfect black Gabbro on St Kilda was unbelievable.It will be shown in two x 1 hour shows, BBC2 Scotland, Sky, iplayer October 19th and 26th at 19.00. Enjoy!


Some pics from St Kilda on the 5 climbs, 5 islands trip. Photos: Triple Echo



My previous blog about the trip is here.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesCat climbers Mast climbers Climbing walls

Transcendence

After a great trip in Wales we headed to Northumberland, an amazing little sandstone area. The climbing is similar to the grit stone in the Peak District except instead of being slopey friction climbing its crimpy gymnastic pulling! I was pretty psyched since this is more my style of climbing?

The goal was to repeat Transcendence [...]Fingerboard climbing Climbing kilimanjaro Climbing slings

Beginner?s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yangshuo, China

New 8b at Steall, Glen Nevis

Since the conditions got kinda frozen last week I was eager to see if the drips of Steall would freeze at source and allow me to see off an obvious link-up project. A few months ago I did a new 8a+ called The Gurrie, between Leopold and Steall Appeal. So named because I started up it only intending to work out the first 4 moves off the deck and ended up growling and scuffling my way through the crux bulge to the chain.The obvious link was to take in the second crux of Steall Appeal to bump it to soft 8b. Once I?d worked a sequence around the icicles at the top, I stuck my handwarmer ?teabag? in the chalkbag and got it done. Video below:


Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesMount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

Conditions Report - November 24 2010

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Ablakov V Thread without the V Threader

Day Hike ? Milner Pass to Bear Lake Continental Divide Traverse

When Dennis & I were forced to retreat off the summit ramp of Mt. Ida a couple summers ago, I vowed to return and claim victory. Boy, did I ever!

Lucky for me, intrepid CMC trip leader, Dominique, came up with a marvelous scheme: Hike from Milner Pass to Bear Lake bagging peaks along [...]Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi

Kennedy Space Center & NASA

Dennis & I took a tour of the Kennedy Space Center, including a viewing of the NASA launch complex and 3D IMAX movie. Oh yes, we two love-nerds were very happy!


First, we jumped on a bus which took us over to the NASA complex. We had a lovely tour and took lots of [...]Climbing videos Moon climbing Climbing board

How to?build a home gym

When I moved into my new home, I spent a little time on reconnaissance for somewhere to train for climbing.
I initially thought a fingerboard would be the way to go. However, all the doorways were flimsy stud walls and not sturdy enough.
An alternative jumped out - Rock Rings by Metolius. If only I could find [...]Famous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

First time climbing at Froggatt Edge

I’ve only just got chance to post about last week’s trip to Froggatt Edge. Friends tell me that a crisp spring morning is better for climbing grit but if you ask me sunshine is the way forward. I headed to Froggatt Edge (just south of Sheffield) with a few friends for my first ascents on [...]Mast climbers Climbing walls Fingerboard climbing

Conditions Report - December 1st 2010

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Triaxal Loading on Trees

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Beginner?s Guide to Sport Climbing Red Rocks, Nevada

Red Rocks, Nevada is one of my favorite climbing destinations. Located just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, the combination of Sin City + fantastic climbing can make for an interesting vacation, if you’re so inclined. Like my Beginner’s Guide To Rock Climbing in Thailand, I focus on sport climbs in the 5.6 to [...]Climbing carabiner Climbing cotopaxi Mount linux

CrossFit ? The Ultimate Mountaineering Workout?

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Hard Trad FAs At The New River Gorge By Goodman & Wilder

Pat Goodman and Matt Wilder pull off 2 hard trad FAs in West Virginia's New River Gorge with Chuck Fryberger on hand to capture the sends for his upcoming movie The SceneHard Trad FAs At The New River Gorge By Goodman & Wilder from ClimbingNarc.com



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Pre-Great Climb interview

Here is a wee interview I did for Triple Echo in prep for the Great Climb, but didn?t end up used on the live broadcast since the climbing action didn?t let up! Thought I would share it. Questions by Lindsay Cannon.As you can see it?s aimed at a non-climbing audience. Both my fears about the weather, and my confidence in Tim turned out to be right! But my fears about my own performance turned out to be the least of my worries on the day...Full Name: Dave MacLeodDate of Birth: 17 July 1978Place of Birth: Glasgow
Nationality: British
Where do you live: Letterfinlay, in Lochaber.Brothers/Sisters: Younger Sister Katy half-brothers Todd and Alan and half-sister Fiona.
Education: Garnethill Primary, Charing Cross, GlasgowWesterton Primary, Bearsden, GlasgowBoclair Academy, Bearsden, GlasgowBSc Sports science & physiology, University of GlasgowMSc Sport & Exercise Science, University of Strathclyde
How would you describe yourself: A fairly passive, quiet and thoughtful sort of guy except when in comes to work or play where an obsessive, die-hard stubborn streak shows itself. I love being in wild places, training, solving problems and trying to do things that seem improbable by finding easy ways to do them.
How would you describe what you do for a living:The short answer is that I climb rocks and mountains and tell stories about my experiences. The longer answer is that I climb routes that haven?t been done yet because of a combination of difficulty, apparent risk, remoteness or logistical awkwardness. I make a living from the interest of the stories of my climbs and the knowledge I?ve gained in how to prepare for them. I write a couple of blogs that a lot of people read and on that I run a shop on the site which sells books, films and clothing related to climbing. I also write the books, make the films and design the clothing, along with my wife, Claire. I also promote several climbing equipment companies, lecture about my climbing and coach it too. There isn?t much time left over.The objective of all this is basically to have great experiences and use them to do creative work that helps others with their experiences in one way or another.
Philosophy: To follow my passions as energetically as possible and use this energy and experience to learn as much as possible and then share it with others.Partner: Married to Claire.Do they climb and if so to what grade: Claire skydives.When did you start climbing and why:I started climbing about 15. I discovered hills by accident by cycling out to the ?Queen?s View? just after I moved to the edge of Glasgow. I loved exploring the hills and the highlands and naturally gravitated increasingly towards cliffs rather than paths as the logical next stage. When I found out about the boulders at Dumbarton Rock I was totally hooked on climbing and didn?t look back.First route you climbed and how you felt afterwards:I can?t remember the first climb I succeeded on, but on the first day I went to Dumbarton Rock I soloed to the last moves of a route called ?Plunge? about 4 times and downclimbed it, too scared to climb up the castle wall at the end (I?d gone the wrong way, it turned out later). I found the process of dealing with my fear and having another attempt a brilliant experience. There were two climbers hanging around on ropes on a route called Requiem nearby, which was the hardest climb in Scotland at the time (first ascent Dave Cuthberston in 1983). They were laughing at me because I kept reappearing from the bottom of ?Plunge? with a sorry look on my face. But it seemed pretty ironic to me because at least I could climb to the last move without a rope, but they could barely make a single move on their climb without pulling up on the rope. On the train home I set a goal to climb Requiem when I was 16. I was 20 when I managed it.Why did you want to continue climbing:There are several big advantages of rock climbing over other sports (which I generally hated as a kid). First, the climb is always there, so if you fail you have another chance to solve the problems and have another go. Second, you can make it whatever you want it to be - completely safe, insanely dangerous, local at the climbing wall, or halfway round the world, hot and sunny in the south of France or bitterly cold on an Alpine north face, solitary free soloing or social bouldering. Total freedom and no rules! Third, it?s indefinable nature tends in most cases to keep the sport at an ethically sound level and closer to the original ideals of sport. It takes place in some of the most beautiful places in the world and the exposure to risk and the ?no going back? committing nature of the activity is one of the best feelings you can get. It?s free, and all you really need is your hands and feet to go and climb something.What type of rock do you prefer and why:The mathematical precision of the movement demanded by Dumbarton Basalt, or the elegant climbs and friction moves of Ben Nevis Andesite are my favourites, among many.Which style of climbing do you prefer and why (sport,trad, winter mixed, ice etc)I am a Scot so I tend not to prefer any - Scottish climbing has great climbing in all the disciplines so it?s hard not to love them all equally. But I find it extremely hard to live without the daily activity of bouldering.What is the hardest route you have ever climbed and type:The hardest route I have climbed is my own route Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. It?s very close to my physical limit of climbing difficulty, but in a situation where the consequences of a fall could not be higher.Have you ever been injured and if so how did it happen:Like most athletes I have had many injuries from training, to my fingers and elbows. Apart from minor scrapes, my only spell in hospital from a climbing fall was a badly broken ankle from a free-soloing fall in my late teens. It was an important stage in my development - I learnt a lot!Which climber do you admire most and why:It?s natural to connect more with climbers who have climbed the routes you have seen or attempted. When I started, all the hardest climbs in Scotland were opened by Dave Cuthbertson and the process of repeating many of his hardest routes during my development really taught me how much effort and commitment was needed to climb hard, especially across different disciplines. I was desperate to climb a new route project of his in Glen Nevis that he never quite completed. But it was so hard, it took me years before I could finally do it in 2007 (Ring of Steall 8c+). I knew where Cubby?s highpoint was in 1993 which was a world class climbing performance at the time and if it hadn?t been for discussing the movement details at length with Cubby I don?t think I could have done it.How do you feel about the challenge of The Great Climb:It?s an enormous challenge. In fact I better not think about it too much or I?ll get intimidated. The only thing that helps is to know that it?ll be a big challenge for everyone involved. Doing the hardest climbs these days is very dependent on the conditions being just right. Athletes in sports that have scheduled competitions often manage better performances in training than competition when internal and external conditions are ideal. Climbing isn?t normally scheduled so we keep attempting the climbs until everything works out right and then maybe we succeed. We have to take pot luck on the day for what the weather is like, so it could make our chosen climb impossible if we are unlucky. It?s a six hour climb so it?s comparable to distance running as a physiological challenge in some ways. You can see in marathon (a 2 or 3 hour event) how much conditions of wind and temperature affect the performances. Fast times just aren?t possible on a hot day with a headwind. On Sron Uladail, wind chill is our most likely enemy. If our muscles are very cold it will be much more draining to climb each section and we will tire more quickly and might fall. Or if it?s very wet or humid the holds will be much harder to use. Of course if it?s completely still, the midges might make it impossible for anyone to function and we may all have to run away! On a warm day with a good breeze we will have a fighting chance. In a westerly storm we?ll not even get off the ground. What do you feel are the strengths of your climbing partnership for The Great Climb:Both Tim and myself are very experienced climbers on this type of climb. We know our limits fairly well but also how to operate right on those limits without getting into too much trouble. Tim has a huge amount of energy, an extremely positive attitude and is known for rising to the occasion when circumstances are not going to plan on a climb. He is absolutely dependable to bring the best out in not only himself, but climbing partners as well. My approach is subtly different I suppose in that I tend to really home in on the potential problems and how to make a plan to get round them. I?ve been training strength a lot in preparation for this climb because the start of pitch 2 has a short very intense section of hard, powerful moves. I?ve also spent a lot of time looking at the cliff and figured out exactly where to climb. So between us I think we have a lot to throw at the climb and there is a lot we can help each other with our separate leads on the climb.Weaknesses of the above if any:My biggest worry (apart from the weather on the day) is that I wont be able to reach one hold on the hardest move of the whole route. It?s the second move on the second pitch. It?s a huge reach with the left hand from a good hold to a finger edge. If I time the movement perfectly I can do the move, but I need to use 100% of my strength to reach the last three inches and it?s hard to be accurate to grab the hold directly - a bit like tennis serves; it?s hard to serve at 100% maximum speed without sacrificing accuracy. Even if I can complete the move, if I run out of strength higher up the pitch I think there?s no way I could have enough strength in reserve to have a second attempt. The other problem is that if I fall off that move, I might land directly on Tim who will be hanging on the belay right underneath. Tim?s pitches are also very hard and although I?m confident he can climb them, they are very tiring endurance bouts of climbing and if he slips near the end of a pitch it will be really tough to have another try. This is one of the big difficulties with a climb as long and steep as Sron Uladail - it is very unforgiving of mistakes on the ascent. If either of us takes any falls it will take every bit of fitness we have to succeed after that.
Climbing career highlights ? top two:See above Echo Wall and also watch the film!!No.2 - The first winter ascent of Anubis on Ben Nevis. Anubis is a summer rock climb first climbed by myself in 2005 and was the hardest rock climb on the mountain at E8 until I did Echo Wall more recently. I made it a big goal to try to climb it under winter conditions of snow and ice as well. I managed to do it last winter on my fourth attempt. As a winter ascent of a summer rock climb it was a much higher standard than had been done before. The crux pitch took 5 and a half hours to lead and was the hardest test of endurance and composure I?ve had in climbing.
Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesMount royal Rock climbing exercises Climbing clothes

Transcendence

After a great trip in Wales we headed to Northumberland, an amazing little sandstone area. The climbing is similar to the grit stone in the Peak District except instead of being slopey friction climbing its crimpy gymnastic pulling! I was pretty psyched since this is more my style of climbing?

The goal was to repeat Transcendence [...]Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes

back at it?

So I?m back on the blogging front? I know? It?s been way to long, I cant even remember when the last blogged but my site tells me April 22 was the last real post, and wow, that was a long time ago? So much has happened in my life since then, I can?t begin [...]Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

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here we go again

Sorry its been so long! AND you’re gonna have to wait a little longer…. HAHA… This site is under construction but stay tuned for the new and impoved mattsegal.com
mAtt
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Opening New Routes in Peru

After the written word the internet may be the greatest communication tool ever invented. It has made it possible to drop a line to a complete stranger halfway across the world as easy as if you were asking your buddy to pass you a beer.
I just got an email from Sophie Denis, a French [...]American mountain ranges Evergreen climbers York climbers

The Euro Death Knot

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Risk & Ethics of Adventure: EMFF Oct 24th

At this year?s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival I?m speaking at a debate on the Ethics of Adventure. Sunday 24th October, 2pm, details on the EMFF site here.Of course there are many ethical aspects to adventure and adventure sport, and which we discuss I?m sure will depend on what you guys want to talk about on the day. I guess the most discussed of all is of course the issue of risk. I?m never sure whether it?s because I?ve studied, written and talked about the subject for years now, or whether I rub noses with it a lot, or whether I?m getting older. But when I observe attitudes to risk in some others or society in general, I get quite riled. I?m a passive sort of chap and that doesn?t happen easily. It strikes me that the general attitudes to risk and which risks are acceptable are not in my society has got progressively more messed up in my lifetime. My sport of climbing has been a welcome sanctuary of sense a lot of the time! It seems that people are content to take huge risks with life, limb or lifestyle without giving much thought (or none at all), yet are aghast at others risk taking that is proportionally far smaller, or balanced against much greater reward.I?m being a little provocative here of course. I know that it?s a question of perception. A lot of our grave errors in risk awareness and management aren?t really our fault. We?re not hardwired to cope with the sorts of risks of modern life, and the corrupting influences of the media compound this to a quite staggering level. So more on this on the 24th? See you there maybe for a lively chat.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesClimbing slings Climb aconcagua Climbing videos

Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak

November and December 2010 Climbing Events

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Conditions Report - November 17 2010

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Mountain Equipment?s Chill slackline sets are now in stock in the shop - the 15 metre ?entry level? set. A little wider at 40mm?Also back in stock is the To Hell and Back DVD which some of you have been asking for.Dave MacLeod

My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakesFamous mountains Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges

Gone Trekkin?

I’ve been trekking in Pakistan for the past month, so I haven’t been climbing much recently. However, I found a few sweet climbs in Pakistan that I’ll be posting about soon. I’m done with the Karakoram Highway and now am heading down the Silk Road on my way to more climbing in Southern China, [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

back at it?

So I?m back on the blogging front? I know? It?s been way to long, I cant even remember when the last blogged but my site tells me April 22 was the last real post, and wow, that was a long time ago? So much has happened in my life since then, I can?t begin [...]Climb aconcagua Climbing videos Moon climbing

Learning the error of my ways

Access Secured At California?s Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help

Chicago

We spent a day exploring Chicago. We started out in the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower), then walked over to Millennium Park, and ended by going on a Segway Tour!


Video of Our Segway Tour of Chicago


View Looking South & East from Top of Willis Tower

View Looking North & East from Top of Willis Tower

Holiday [...]Climbing photos Climbing pictures Rock climbing technique

Smart went Crazy

So psyched! Got err done?
After we dropped the bag I went back but it was way to hot, crazy since it?s only the beginning of March. I tied in and was super shaky, I just had this vision of my body smacking the slab as hard as the bag did. I couldn?t fully commit but [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges

Die by the Drop E10 7a

After a a couple of weeks of October deluge in the highlands, the mountains had turned an amazing bright gold colour lit up by a rare morning of sunshine. I took my chance and headed out to Glenfinnan with Kev for a look at the slab. I was off to Spain that evening, so it was worth going for a look even just for a few hours. On arrival at Lochailort and inspection of the slab through my binoculars, it was still soaking. Over several brews in Arisaig?s caf?, we discussed how precious it was to be have dry days on mountain crag projects in Scotland. It had been over two weeks of waiting since our last day at the slab, and I realised it would over three before I could come back again after a trip away and some work for sponsors. The discussion was ringing in my ears when we arrived at the crag at noon to find my E10 project almost dry. It isn?t a long route so I there were no excuses about needing to work sections of it anymore. I knew exactly what to do and that it would never be any easier to lead than today. So why not? Well, because the knowledge of the moves meant I knew how easy it would be to fall. A desperate snatch for a thumb press and another for a poor smear were definitely low percentage moves, above a sole microwire in dubious rock and a couple of comedy skyhooks in a flake you could pull off with the same force as you?d need to open a fridge door.I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I?d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top.What a great experience and I must say I felt a lot better after it and that I?d decided to go for it. It?s a slab so who knows what bloody grade to give it? I know there are some hard slabs out there, and I also know I?m an awful slab climber. So all I can really do is compare it to recent slabs and other trad routes I?ve climbed: Harder than Indian Face & Walk of Life? Check. Harder than If Six Was Nine? Check. Harder than Muy Caliente? Check. Etc etc... So maybe it scrapes into E10 7a. PS: Will post up some video stills and pics when I?m home from Spain.Dave MacLeod

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Smart went Crazy

So psyched! Got err done?
After we dropped the bag I went back but it was way to hot, crazy since it?s only the beginning of March. I tied in and was super shaky, I just had this vision of my body smacking the slab as hard as the bag did. I couldn?t fully commit but [...]Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Disneyworld 15th Annual Food & Wine Festival

Dennis & I went to Disneyworld to visit the Caffery family and also to partake in the 15th Annual Food & Wine Festival. The Cafferys were great fun (as always) and wonderful hosts.

The first day we went to Epcot Center and walked around the lake. Food samples from around the world [...]Climbing board Climbing blocks Climbing carabiner

J-Tree

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The Pinnacle DVD is here

Hot Aches Productions DVD about our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis is ready. Tomorrow (Friday) I?m at the premiere of the film in Kendal and will be picking up our DVD stock from Diff there and dispatching orders when we come home on Monday. It?s up in the shop to order if you want a copy, right here.In case you missed my previous posts about our week, this is what all the fuss is about: In 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, probably the best ice climbers anywhere at the time completed a week of back to back first ascents of cutting edge ice routes on Ben Nevis. The first one-day ascent of Point Five Gully, first ascents of Pigott?s Route, Smith?s Route, The Great Chimney, Minus 3 Gully, Orion Face Direct and a traverse of the Grey Corries as their ?rest day?. It was a massive step forward and took the generation behind them a good decade and the development of modern ice tools to catch up. Step cutting these routes day after day was a fantastic feat of skill and endurance. It became a bit of a legend in Scottish climbing, to say the least.Hence, 50 years later, to the day, myself and Andy Turner felt it would be great to go and repeat the week of climbs and make a film about it with Hot Aches Productions. We had a great night after our week with Jimmy Marshall himself, talking about the week at the Fort William Mountain Festival (which you?ll find as an extra on the DVD along with an extensive interview with Jimmy who is now 82). Since then, Paul Diffley has been preparing the edit of the film itself.It recounts the story of Jimmy and Robin?s adventure and achievement, shows off the routes and the Ben itself rather beautifully I think. It did help that we had a stunning week of weather on our re-enactment.Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed making it.

About to top out on Point Five Gully during our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis.

Dave MacLeod

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Conditions Report - November 24 2010

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New colours in the ME beanies

We just got in a lot of new colours in our Mountain Equipment beanies ready for the coming winter. They are in the shop now right here.


In the books section I?ve added Eric Horst?s new book on mental skills for climbers - Maximum Climbing which is just out. It?s a very up to date and comprehensive guide to theory and practice in the psychology of performance in climbing. Horst has drawn on the developments in behavioral and cognitive psychology which has come on a lot in the past few years. Interesting reading (review on the way on OCC soon).Dave MacLeod

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December and January Climbing Events

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Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Rock climbing technique Rock climbing shoes Pictures climbing

Kilted climbing

The other week mentioned a fun wee shoot I did with Steven Gordon. It was for Visit Scotland, promoting an adventure travel trade summit happening in Aviemore next month. Visit Scotland just sent over the picture they chose to promote the summit, so I thought I would share it.I thought Steven did a fine job here!Dave MacLeod

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Free clips for Chris Sharma ?King Lines? climbing video?

Interested in downloading high-quality clips of Chris Sharma climbing?
Today I checked out the website for Chris Sharma’s King Lines movie - and there’s a new addition!
Early versions of the DVD didn’t feature all of the extras properly, so the website features downloadable clips from the extras.
This won’t replace the need to buy the DVD, but [...]Mount everest Spanish mountain ranges American mountain ranges